Pan-fried pork with chestnuts

To keep up with the Autumn spirit, an old Portuguese classic. The sort of dish that reminds of home, rich, tasty  hearty. Just what you need for a cold grey day.

The recipe is by Chefe Silva, from his book Recipes for My Friends. The paprika is a replacement of colarau, a condiment used in Portuguese cuisine made with the different types of Capsicum. They are more or less the same, but colorau tends to have a stronger saltier taste and give a radioactive red color to the food.

Pan-fried pork with chestnuts

Ingredients

  • 700g pork (preferably loin or sirloin)
  • 1,5 dL white wine
  • Salt, pepper and paprika
  • 1 bay leaf
  • 2 smashed gloves of garlic
  • 1 tablespoon lard
  • 750g frozen chestnuts

Method

Cut the meat into small pieces weighing app. 15g and season them with white wine, salt, pepper, paprika and the garlic. Let it marinate for about 1 hour. Then drain the meat, squeezing it very well. Save the marinade. Heat up the lard in heavy bottom frying pan, add the meat and let it fry at strong heat, stirring well. When brown add the chestnuts and let it fry for another 3 to 5 min. Then add the marinade you saved, and let reduce for about 2 min. Serve the dish with oranges or with apple jam.


Tomato soup

It seems today is the last day of Summer. Tomorrow, it will rain and the temperature will drop down; next thing we know, snow will be here and we will all be wearing fluffy thing around our ears. It might be my last chance to post this (cold) tomato soup.

I came across many different versions of tomato soups: my Mother’s (with potatoes), my nanny’s (with loads of potatoes, croutons and a poached egg), Maria de Lourdes Modesto‘s (with rice), the German way (with cabbage), the Swiss way (boil the tomatoes to death and then add an equal amount in volume of cream), the Austrian way (as before, plus pumpkin seed oil), the Spanish way (called gazpacho and eaten cold. In fact, God forbids it’s served warm) …  And then, there is this one, the mean tomato soup Yotam Ottolenghi‘s Mother used to do.  I took the liberty of replacing the coriander by manjericão (Ocimum basilicum), better known as Portuguese basil. Not food snobbery: I actually have it growing on a pot, courtesy of P. and D.

Tomato soup

Ingredients 

  • 2 tbsp olive oil, plus extra to finish
  • 1 large onion, peeled and chopped
  • 1 tsp cumin seeds
  • 2 garlic cloves, crushed
  • 750ml vegetable stock
  • 4 large ripe tomatoes, chopped
  • 400ml tin chopped Italian tomatoes
  • 1 tbsp caster sugar
  • 1 slice sourdough bread
  • 2 tbsp chopped coriander, plus extra to finish (I used Portuguese basil)
  • Salt and black pepper

Method

Heat the oil in a medium saucepan, add the onion and sauté, stirring often, for five minutes, until translucent. Add the cumin and garlic, and fry for two minutes, then add the stock, both fresh and tinned tomatoes, sugar, a teaspoon of salt and a good grind of black pepper. Bring to a gentle simmer and cook for 20 minutes, adding the bread halfway through. Add the coriander, then pulse-blitz the soup a few times to break down the tomatoes a bit – you want them a little coarse and chunky. (This soup should be quite thick, but add a little water to thin it down if you prefer.) Serve drizzled with oil and garnished with fresh coriander.


Sabih, tahini sauce, zhoug and salad

An Israeli chef gives his interpretation of an Iraqi dish, topped with an Yemenite green chilli sauce. And, a pretty damn good it was, just ideal for this sort of weather…. The recipe was brought to the Guardian (here), by the hand of Yotam Ottonleghi. You know the drill: kilometric list of ingredients and several elements to put together at the end. But, it is worthwhile the effort – the combination of flavors and textures is delicate and at the same time exciting. Each one has its place and none is over-powering. It can be cooked in large batches and stored in the fridge to be eaten ad hoc.

Sabih, tahini sauce, zhoug and salad

Ingredients

For the sabih

  • 2 large aubergines
  • About 300ml sunflower oil
  • 4 slices rustic white bread, toasted
  • 4 free-range eggs, hard-boiled and cut into 1cm-thick slices
  • Salt and black pepper

For the tahini sauce

  • 100g tahini paste
  • 80ml water
  • 20ml lemon juice
  • 1 small garlic clove, crushed

For the salad

  • 2 ripe tomatoes, cut into 1cm dice
  • 2 mini cucumbers, cut into 1cm dice
  • 2 spring onions, thinly sliced
  • 1½ tbsp chopped parsley
  • 2 tsp lemon juice
  • 1½ tbsp olive oil

For the  zhoug

  • For the zhoug
  • 35g coriander
  • 20g parsley
  • 2 green chillies
  • ½ tsp ground cumin
  • ¼ tsp ground cardamom
  • ⅛ tsp sugar
  • ¼ tsp salt
  • 2 garlic cloves, crushed
  • 3 tbsp olive oil
  • 2 tbsp water

Method

Using a vegetable peeler, peel off strips of aubergine skin from top to bottom, so they end up like a zebra, with alternating black-and-white stripes. Cut both aubergines widthways into 2.5cm-thick slices.

Heat the sunflower oil in a wide pan. Carefully – the oil spits – fry the aubergine in batches until nice and dark, turning once, for six to eight minutes; add oil if needed as you cook the batches. When done, the aubergine should be completely tender in the centre. Remove from the pan, leave to drain on kitchen paper, then sprinkle with salt.

To make the zhoug, put all the ingredients in a food processor and blitz to a smooth paste. For the tahini sauce, put the tahini paste, water, lemon juice, garlic and a pinch of salt in a bowl. Mix well, and add a little more water, if needed, so its consistency is slightly runnier than honey. Make the salad by mixing the tomato, cucumber, spring onion, parsley, lemon juice and olive oil. Add salt and pepper to taste.

To serve, place a slice of bread on each plate. Spoon a tablespoon of tahini sauce over each, then arrange overlapping slices of aubergine on top. Drizzle over some more tahini, without completely covering the aubergines. Season each egg slice, and lay on top of the aubergine. Drizzle more tahini on top and spoon over as much zhoug as you like – be careful, it’s hot! Serve the salad on the side; spoon a little on top of each sabih, too, if you like. Store any leftover zhoug in a sealed container in the fridge – it will keep for a week at least.


Chicken and buttermilk cold soup

Mafalda, a 6-year-old Argentinian girl, who is deeply concerned about humanity and world peace, loves The Beatles and rebels against the current state of the world, hated soup. Totally and vehemently. And, her dislike of soup appears to have been transmitted to her fans, including myself. Not until recently I have started to appreciate soup. I  might eat a mean gazpacho in the peak of Summer, but I used to welcome  soup with the same enthusiasm than a double root-canal. Even away from my parent’s home, I could hear my Mother said “Oh, but is so healthy, it has so many vitamins and minerals…”. Probably today, she would have said something around the lines of “it has loads of antioxidants…” But, over the years my culinary tastes have changed, and I came to appreciate it. In Winter,  a rich soup a rich soup nourish the soul and comfort the body. In Summer, it can be cooling and refreshing. At the end, it seemed to be our parents were right about it.

Before Summer is over, I decided to give it a go to this chicken and buttermilk soup I saw on The Guardian. Dishes by Yotam Ottolenghi very-very-rarely goes wrong, and this Summer soup  looked refreshing, velvety and packed with different flavors and textures. I was not disappointed. In fact, I might even start to serve in Winter, to remind me of the long lost Summer.

Chicken and buttermilk cold soup 

Ingredients 

  • 3 tbsp olive oil, plus extra to finish
  • 1 large onion, chopped into 2cm dice
  • 3 small whole garlic cloves, peeled
  • 4 free-range chicken drumsticks or thighs, skinned
  • 2 small potatoes, peeled and cut into 2cm chunks
  • Zest of 1 lemon, half of it shaved into strips, the rest grated
  • Salt and white pepper
  • About 800ml chicken stock
  • 250ml buttermilk (or whole milk)
  • 15g each fresh basil, coriander and mint leaves, roughly shredded
  • ½ tbsp sumac

Method

Heat two tablespoons of oil in a large saucepan and sauté the onion and garlic on a low heat for five to 10 minutes, until soft but not coloured. Add the chicken, potatoes, lemon strips, a teaspoon of salt and half a teaspoon of white pepper. Pour in stock just to cover and simmer gently for 30 minutes, until the potatoes are soft and the chicken is cooked.

Remove and discard the lemon strips, and transfer the chicken to a bowl. Blitz the soup until smooth and leave to cool down. Once cool, stir in the grated lemon zest and buttermilk. Taste, adjust the seasoning, and refrigerate until cold. Take it out of the fridge about 20 minutes before serving, so it’s chilled but not fridge-cold.

Just before serving, shred the chicken off the bones, and fry the shredded meat in the remaining olive oil on a high heat until golden and crispy. Divide the soup among the bowls, add the shredded chicken and herbs, drizzle with oil, sprinkle with sumac and serve.

If you want to serve it as a hot dish, warm it up very gently after stirring in the buttermilk, to avoid curdling


Stuffed tomatoes

This dish started with a culinary crisis. What to to cook for dinner when all you have in the fridge is minced meat, loads of good looking tomatoes and you are not allowed carbohydrates? Easy solution: stuffed tomatoes. Technically, stuffed tomatoes have rice or bread crumbs on their filling. But, I was not going that detail to get in the middle of a respectable meal.

Stuffed tomatoes

Ingredients

  • 1 Kg of tomato (it depends a lot on the size of the tomatoes).
  • 500g  of minced meat (for best results, I use a mix of pork and beef)
  • 3 small yellow  onions finely sliced
  • 1 clove of garlic grounded
  • Olive oil
  • Chinese five-spice powder to taste (or, if you want a more mediterranean taste a mix of rosemary, tarragon, thyme, oregano and basil).
  • Hot paprika
  • Sultanas to taste.
  • Quark to taste
  • Freshly ground salt and pepper

Method

Slice off the top of the tomatoes and hollow out with a spoon, leaving a thick shell (about 2cm).

In a large frying pan, put about 2 table spoons of olive oil and let it heat until is sizzling. Put the onions and the garlic and mix well.  Season with  freshly ground salt and pepper to taste. Put the heat to medium and let the onions caramelize.

When the onions are golden and soft, add the minced meat and mix well. Add the Chinese five-spice powder and the paprika to test. Let the minced meat brow. If you want, you can add sultanas.

Once the meat is brown, add quark until you obtain a consistent paste.

Fill the tomatoes with this mix and  put them on a oven proof dish, previously greased with olive oil (a thin layer will do). Sprinkle with olive oil, salt and pepper.

Bake for about 15min at 200 oC.


Courgette and feta fritters

2011-03-30_19

Other than his very popular New Vegetarian column at the Guardian, Yotam Ottolenghi also writes for Here Is The City News. And, he doesn’t hesitate to use recipes the editor of the Guardian didn’t see fit to publish. This one had to be dropped from a section on quick and healthy breakfasts. Having tried it, I can certainly understand why. It took me a couple of hours and a dishwasher load to have it ready. It might be delicious, but it is not exactly what you need to to start the day… Unless you go to Nopi’s and order it from the menu.

Courgette and feta fritters

Ingredients 
Sauce:

  • 200g soured cream (I replaced it by lactose free yogurt)
  • 2 tbsp roughly chopped coriander
  • ½ tsp ground cardamom
  • 70ml sunflower oil
  • Zest and juice of 1 lime
  • Salt and black pepper
Fritters
  • 3 medium courgettes
  • 2 small shallots, finely chopped (but very very finely, otherwise you will feel you are chewing onions)
  • 2 garlic cloves, crushed
  • Grated zest of 2 limes
  • About 60g self-raising flour
  • 2 large free-range eggs
  • 2 tsp ground coriander
  • 1 tsp ground cardamom
  • 150g manouri cheese (or feta)
Method

In a small bowl, mix the cream, chopped coriander, half a teaspoon of ground cardamom, two teaspoons of oil and the lime zest and juice. Season to taste, cover and chill.

Chop off the ends of the courgettes, then grate the flesh into a bowl. Sprinkle with half a teaspoon of salt and leave for 10 minutes so they release their juices. Squeeze the courgettes to remove most of the liquid, then add the shallots, garlic, lime zest, flour, eggs, ground coriander, the remaining cardamom and a pinch of pepper. Mix to form a thick batter (add some flour if it’s a bit runny), then fold in the manouri.

Heat 2-3mm of oil in a large frying pan and add heaped dessertspoons of the batter (in batches, if need be), flatten a little and cook on each side for around three minutes. Remove and drain on kitchen paper. (larger portions than a tablespoon will give very messy fritters. Do not forget to flat).

Serve three fritters per portion with a generous dollop of the sauce.


Rice and spinach cake

2011-03-28_20

While looking for a recipe to use up spinach, I found by chance an old rticle about rice by Fiona Becket. The recipe has proved to be ageless, and delicious. The quantities of herbs and spices had to be adjusted to current times – pinches are now teaspoons.

Rice and spinach cake

Ingredients 

  • 500g fresh, tender-leafed spinach
  • 250g arborio or carnaroli rice
  • 2 medium-sized onions
  • 2 cloves garlic
  • 25g unsalted butter
  • 2 tbsp olive oil
  • 3 fresh, well-born eggs
  • 60g Parmesan, grated
  • 2 or 3 sage leaves
  • A pinch of thyme
  • A pinch of oregano
  • Sea salt
  • A generous grating of nutmeg

Method

Pre-heat the oven to 200C/400F/gas mark 6. Wash the spinach several times in a sink full of cold water. Remove the stalks and imperfections from the spinach. Place a large pan of water to boil and plunge in the spinach. Quickly remove the spinach, cool in iced water and drain thoroughly. Rinse the pan, refill with water and return to the cooker to boil. Form the spinach into balls, squeezing out any excess water, then chop finely. Tip the rice into the boiling water and cook for 10-12 minutes. Drain the rice and mix with the spinach.

Peel, finely chop, and fry the onions in the oil and butter until pale and softened, then add to the rice and spinach. Pick and chop the herbs, peel and finely chop the garlic, grate in about 4 tablespoons of Parmesan, add in the eggs, sea salt and several grinds of pepper. Mix all this together, then smooth into a dish or a tin lined with liberally-buttered silicon paper. Bake the cake in the oven for 25-30 minutes until golden


Spiced lentils with cucumber yogurt

2011-02-20_17
Another typical Yotam Ottolenghi dish: a kilometric list of ingredients for an amazing plate of lentils, that will warm you even on the coldest days of winter. The recipe was found on Yotam’s New Vegetarian column at the Guardian, and of course on Plenty, his latest cookbook.

Spiced lentils with cucumber yogurt

Ingredients 

  • 200g split red lentils
  • 1 bunch fresh coriander
  • 1 small onion, peeled
  • 40g ginger, peeled
  • 3 cloves garlic, peeled
  • 1 mild green chilli
  • half teaspoon of  black mustard seeds
  • 4 tablespoons of sunflower oil
  • half teaspoon ground coriander
  • 1 teaspoon ground cumin
  • half teaspoon ground turmeric
  • half teaspoon paprika
  • 10 curry leaves
  • 300g ripe tomatoes, peeled and chopped
  • 2 teaspoon caster sugar
  • half teaspoon fenugreek (optional)
  • 1 pinch asafoetida (optional)
  • Salt
  • 150g Greek yogurt (I used regular lactose free yogurt)
  • 75g finely diced cucumber
  • half tablespoon of olive oil
  • 70g unsalted butter
  • lime juice

Methods

Wash the lentils in plenty of water, drain and soak in 350ml of fresh water for 30 minutes. Cut the coriander bunch somewhere around its centre to get a leafy top half and a stem/root bottom half. Roughly chop the leaves. Put the stem half in the bowl of a food processor, add the onion, ginger, garlic and chilli – all roughly broken – and pulse a few times to chop up without turning into a paste.

Put the mustard seeds in a heavy-based pot and place over medium heat. When they begin to pop, add the onion mix and sunflower oil, stir and cook on low heat for 10 minutes. Add the spices and curry leaves, and continue cooking and stirring for five minutes longer. Now add the lentils and their soaking water, the tomatoes, sugar, fenugreek, asafoetida and a pinch of salt. Cover and simmer for about 30 minutes, until the lentils are fully cooked.

Before serving, whisk together the yogurt, cucumber, oil and some salt. Stir into the lentils the butter, lime juice and chopped coriander leaves, taste and season generously with salt. Divide into bowls, spoon yogurt on top and garnish with coriander.


Leek fritters.

2011-03-10_20

A Yotam Ottolenghi‘s family dish, with its usual kilometric list of ingredients and a recommendation: do not skip any of them. If anything, spare yourself the bother of doing the sauce. Recipe was found on Plenty, his latest cookbook.

Ingredients 

For the sauce

  • 100g Greek yogurt
  • 100g sour cream
  • 2 garlic cloves, crushed
  • 2 tablespoons lemon juice
  • 3 tablespoons olive oil
  • salt to taste
  • 20g finely chopped flat-leaf parsley leaves
  • 30g finely chopped coriander leaves

For the fritters

  • 3 leeks (450g trimmed weight)
  • 2 banana shallots, peeled and finely chopped (I used regular red onions)
  • 140ml olive oil
  • 1 red chilli, deseeded and sliced
  • 25g parsley, finely chopped
  • 1 teaspoons coriander seeds, crushed
  • 1 teaspoons  ground cumin
  • ½ teaspoons ground turmeric
  • ½ teaspoons  ground cinnamon
  • 1 teaspoons sugar
  • salt to taste
  • 1 egg white
  • 120g self-raising flour (or regular all purpose flour with 2 teaspoons of a raising agent, like Royal).
  • 1 tbsp baking powder
  • 1 egg
  • 150ml milk
  • 55g unsalted butter, melted

Method

Start by making the sauce. Put all the sauce ingredients into the bowl of a food processor, blitz together until a uniform green, then set to one side.

Cut the leeks into 2cm thick rounds, rinse and dry. Over medium heat, sauté the leeks and shallots in a pan with five tablespoons of oil until soft – about 15 minutes – then transfer to a bowl and add the chilli, parsley, spices, sugar and salt. Leave to cool.

Whisk the egg white to soft peaks and fold it into the vegetables. In another bowl, mix the flour, baking powder, egg, milk and butter to form a batter. Gently mix this into the egg white and vegetable mixture.

Put two tablespoons of oil in a frying pan over medium heat. Spoon the mixture into the pan to make four large fritters, and fry for two to three minutes a side, until golden and crisp. Transfer to kitchen towel and repeat, adding oil as needed, until the mixture is used up. Serve warm with the sauce on the side or drizzled over.


Roasted vegetables

2010-12-25_19
A special roast required for ultra special roasted vegetables. That was why I used a modification to the Yotam Ottolenghi’s ultimate winter couscous recipe I cooked a few weeks back (orignal post here). Follow the methods, and then forget to add the chickpeas and the couscous (water is still needed to keep it moist, though).